Further Afield

Celebrating the season of swelling buds and blossoming limbs, Sage on the Coast strews our path with emeralds, uncorking the unheralded, overlooked and out-shouted wines of recent years and pairing them with morsels designed just for them in a three-course tasting menu—plus amuse-bouche—available Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. Chef Kris and wine dervish David work together to showcase deserving wallflowers like Les Printemps Rosé, a fresh, lovely, fruity wine from Mendocino that’s light on the palate, crisp and (while pink) distinctly dry. Recently paired with pan-seared Steelhead trout with fava beans, English peas and spring onions, the rosé worked like a light red, but with an engaging difference. “It’s about offering new experiences” says David, “not just new, but transformative. How many places can you go close to home and have something you’ve never had before? It’s about looking for the real thing.”
Tasting Menu, Sage on the Coast,
Monday-Wednesday, $40.
Food only, $30.

Tilt

Equinoctial warmth stirs Chef Rich into a shoots-and-leaves frenzy. His menus tip away from turnips and mushrooms (au revoir, chanterelles!) toward new green asparagus and fava beans, whose long, baleful pods harbor bright green beans that are sweet, round and tender. After a minute’s blanching, you can pop them out of their skins and into your mouth; Italians, according to Paula Wolfert, rush them from market to pot like Kansans with sweet corn--before the sugar inside turns starchy. Chef Rich serves them with his first-of-the-season Alaskan Halibut, along with fresh artichoke hearts, baby Brussels sprouts and lemon caper butter. Also coming in April: white asparagus, delicate and slightly peppery, served with chopped shallots, hard boiled egg, smoked salmon, capers and lemon shallot vinaigrette; and ramps, garlicky little leeks that perk up Sage’s Roasted Spring Vegetable Salad of arugula, grilled corn, leeks, scallions, asparagus, and red wine Dijon vinaigrette. Finally, as the days become warmer the strawberries get sweeter. Run amok with Kathy’s fresh strawberry funnel cake with whipped cream, strawberry sauce and homemade strawberry ice cream.

PitooTea

Snarled in schedules, tangled in traffic,
we needed to keep our spirits elastic,
we needed relief in a day such as ours
and dinner was not for another four hours.
Let’s make the time, I shouted into the cell,
to sit down, relax, and catch up as well,
away from our projects, committees and boards,
away from our bosses, away from the hordes
at South Coast. Let’s meet someplace not all the rage,
someplace unpretentious, someplace, well, like Sage.
One Thursday a month there’s an afternoon tea.
It’s right off the freeway—we’ll all meet at three.
Dee had her clients. Bea had her shop.
Lee had the kids and was ready to drop.
Jan had her lesion, Dan his eviction,
Stanley his not-unexpected conviction.
But all of us met round a bright sunny waiter,
who chirruped and cooed and ten seconds later
brought sandwiches (crustless)—cucumber, smoked salmon—
macaroons, tartlets, fresh scones with jam and
lemon curd, from their very own tree,
and oatmeal streusel tea bread for our tea.
Tea! Sixteen kinds, all loose-leaf and hot,
brewed up in little pistachio pots.
How the aromas unfurrowed our brows!
We nodded approval, mummered our wows.
Jill found her strawberry-hibiscus appealing.
Billy blissed-out on organic Darjeeling.
Sal savored sencha with Sage’s sage-honey.
Perry’s was peachy and Mary’s was nutty.
Chuck had the chocolate, rooibos and mint,
deepened the flavor with cream, just a hint
of sugar and just when he smiled a smile obscene
somebody shouted Sweet China Green!
It was Carol, who suddenly stood on her chair.
Come down! whispered Carl, or people will stare!
She wobbled a little--she hadn’t been well.
Her face was askew; her hair was pell-mell.
She gazed at the group, her eyes puffy and red-rimmed.
Laptops were shuttered, Blackberries dimmed.
That’s not a tea, said she, to all our confusion.
That’s a tisane—just a fruity infusion,
all blossom and peel and chocolate pieces
but nary a leaf of camellia sinensis.
I know my tea, my pu-erh and pouchong,
my gunpowder, chai and lapsang souchong.
I sipped Keemun at Claridge’s, rooibos in Djibouti,
I know my chesty from chunky, my flaky from fruity,
the brassy, the bitter, the earthy, the coarse,
the brisk and the muddy, metallic and harsh,
the curly, the crepey, the tarry and tippy,
the powdery, pungent, woody and weedy.
I know the story of tea, if you please.
I’ve read the whole history in Wikipedese.
Who knew Lu Yu before the Ch’a Ching?
Who traded tea with the Sung and the Ming?
Which tea, she queried, give me an answer,
landed at Portsmouth with Kate de Braganza?
I knew Lipton and Twining, or their capable heirs.
I’ve tasted them both, and this isn’t theirs.
Who? she said, sinking back to her seat.
Who? she said, falling promptly asleep.
SerendipiTea smiled our server sublime—
chamomile-lavender knocks them out every time!
Afternoon tea, Sage in Eastbluff, Thursday, April 27, 2pm

Visit the SerendipiTea website and order online
www.serendipitea.com

Second Saturday

Ian Hill's Second Saturday Wine Tasting at the Coast arrives early this month, showcasing the heroic patience and indulgence of California vintners who wrestle something wonderful from the notoriously refractory pinot noir.
Wine Tasting, Sage on the Coast, Saturday April 8, 2pm,
$25 per person, includes appetizers.

Make reservations early for Mother’s Day brunch and dinner, May 14.


Sage is open Easter Sunday for Brunch at 10:30am, Dinner at 4:30pm.
We hope to see you and the whole family.


Eastbluff Shopping Center
2531 Eastbluff
Newport Beach, CA 92660
949.718.9650
Crystal Cove Promenade
7862 East Coast Highway
Newport Beach, CA 92657
949.715.7243