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![]() Sage returns to the Balboa Bay Club on July 16 for the 20th annual benefit for the National Kidney Foundation of Southern California. |
![]() Host Chef Josef Lageder and Chef Rich (invited a seventh time!) enjoy their work. |
![]() Indefatigable friend and Sage supporter Mike Garst volunteers his services. |
![]() Sage on the Coast Executive Chef Kris Kirk and wine dervish David Womack consult over their next tasting menu. |
![]() Bluefin chef and Crystal Cove Promenade neighbor Takashi Abe, untroubled by the competition. |
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Early in the week Sage on the Coast is a haven of repose. Half a league from the clattering ocean, the garden has a quiet tranquility. Forswear decision-making in favor of the tasting menu, and a series of exquisite dishes arrives, each with a thoughtful wine pairing, at a leisurely pace calibrated to the gathering dusk. It’s like dining at a secret spa retreat. A honeyed glass of Buttonwood Sauvignon Blanc recently heralded an amuse-bouche (an understatement!) of stuffed squash blossom: goat cheese whipped with herbs, garlic and a little pesto inside a fragile blossom, still attached to the tiny dark green zucchini with a delightfully large ripe flavor — the whole thing tempura-battered, dolloped with tomato-pepper romesco sauce and served over fresh peppery greens in a bright vinaigrette.
There is barely a murmur from fellow guests transfixed by their own palates. Contemplate the fuchsia and peach colored roses and purple penstemon, the fluttering tendrils of jasmine and happy intense green of dwarf citrus trees as the server pours your South African chenin blanc. Into the gloaming comes a red crisp tostada loaded with chunks of lightly fried, luscious white Alaskan halibut, corn and pinto bean salad, asiago cheese, fresh guacamole (so much!) and (surprise!) crunchy lime-marinated cabbage. A Kurobuta pork loin wrapped with prosciutto, sage and mozzarella, with roasted tomato jus, haricots verts, baby artichokes, and flageolets that melt on your tongue, washed down with a Chateau Mont-Redon Cotes du Rhone, will have you reconciled to all your past transgressions. Forgiveness comes in the form of a warm Bing cherry crisp with vanilla ice cream that’s too sublime for words. Night rushes in on a dark wave of beneficence.
Ah-HemThey had been truly happy, spending their days at the far beach with the deep fine sand and swimming through the small powerful waves and out to where it was deeper. The sand was smooth and cool where the tide had gone out but there were rocks they had to step around which were small and smooth and easy to avoid. There was a line of bees on the sand every day where the tide had left them and they avoided them too. Many were dead but some were crawling or overturned and could still sting but they had not been stung. They came to the restaurant every evening when the streets were warm and hazy and hung with blue flowers and they sat at a table against the wall. They sat where they could be by themselves and watch the baseball. Their hair was streaked with the sun and the salt and they laughed when the waiter brought them a menu of small dishes and said they looked like brother and sister.The room was cool and dark and the windows shaded and people went through it in their bright colors and sat outside and did not see the small menu the waiter had given them. They ate slices of seared ahi that tasted cool and clean with the bite of the pepper and the tang of the crisp green papaya salad, and very sweet, very juicy ripe cantaloupe wrapped with prosciutto crudo that was salty and lightly peppered and drizzled with olive oil. The waiter poured a little rosé for them that was cheerful and fruity but dry at the finish and nice after the heat of the day. “Don’t we have wonderful simple fun?” the girl said. The young man smiled at her and they watched as the ball splashed into the green water and the people in the little boats paddled and splashed to the place where the ball floated in the water under the bright lights. They shared a filet that was grilled and very tender, with sweet smoky port sauce and grilled portobellos. The steak was a small medallion but the flavor was very big and the waiter brought them glasses of a Zin made by a friend of the patrón whose vineyard was in the mountains. The mountain was famous for the grapes that grew in the hot days and foggy cool nights and the restaurant was proud of the wine. The waiter brought a plate of beef stroganoff, which the restaurant made only on Sunday but today there was extra and he brought it to them because the girl was a great beauty and they liked her. The noodles were wide egg noodles that curled along the edge and the beef and fat shiitakes and tomato beef jus and crème fraiche were wonderful with the wine. They ate cheaply and well and finished their wine and stood to leave. The waiter, whose name was Carlos, embraced the young man and kissed him and then kissed the girl. “Forgive me, Señora, it is not every day we open such a wine.” Small Plate Menu, Monday only,
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Berry My HeartOlallie, Chinook for berry, was the name given Professor Waldo’s 1949 cross of a Youngberry and Loganberry. Washington’s Olallie State Park, in the foothills of the Cascades, is, however, full of huckleberries. Olallie berries grow best along the West Coast, especially California, and Valerie has baked pails of them into galettes, rustic tarts that fold over like a vegetable steamer, and served them with a warm caramel-orange sauce and housemade toasted almond ice cream. Chef Rich’s baskets of blueberries made a piquant blueberry chutney, with a kick of chipotle and ginger, to serve over the Dijon and brown sugar-rubbed white King salmon he brought to the Great Chefs, with an unbelievable relish of Spanish red beans, grilled corn, zucchini and baby squash. The you-haven’t-lived Lemon Cheesecake at Eastbluff is topped with macerated raspberries, blueberries and blackberries and served with strawberry ice cream, while Kathy’s Red Raspberry Tiramisu at the Coast has espresso sponge cake layered with raspberry-Chambord cream. Kathy baked her locally grown Persian mulberries in a sour cream custard-filled puff pastry tart shell. Paired with sage-honey ice cream, this Mulberry Turnover will have a very short season indeed. |
Bravo’s Top Chef finalist Dave Martin will league up
with Chefs Rich and Kris this Tuesday, August 8,
for a special one-night-only dinner (wine included).
Dinner is at 6:30 and is $80, excluding tax and gratuity. Hobnobbing: priceless.
Good Day LA (Fox 11) spotlights Sage on the Coast and
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Eastbluff Shopping Center
2531 Eastbluff Newport Beach, CA 92660 949.718.9650 |
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Crystal Cove Promenade 7862 East Coast Highway Newport Beach, CA 92657 949.715.7243 |