Desperate Houseguests
A Hardwell Thanksgiving brooked no contributions. "Just bring yourself," enjoined Trudy Hardwell, whose laborious, inevitable board—mountainous dry bird, steaming vats of starches, thin gravy—bore the aegis of half a generation. Perennial hostess, through numerous indissoluble connections, Trudy responded gamely to the subtle suggestion, pre-Halloween, that a new vegetable dish might take the place of the green bean/cream of mushroom soup/canned fried onion casserole which had in recent years slipped unlamented from her repertoire. An offer to bring one of your own elicits a firm "I'll take care of it. Just bring yourself."
For weeks you try to imagine the vision of Autumn's bounty Trudy will bring before her guests, with a grateful nod in your direction. On the great day, you are called through the leaden aromas, flushed faces, and amplified crowd noise from Irving, to the kitchen. A private viewing? Perhaps, in a new spirit of intimacy, you will be allowed to stir, or whip, or carve? Instead, Trudy hands you an icy bag of frozen vegetables. You can only stare. Has someone misreported a sprain? "Ten minutes on HIGH," she says, turning to her cornstarch.
You begin to see how it is. The flavorless things are not for the table, but for you alone, simultaneously fulfilling your request, preventing another petition, and stigmatizing you as a carping valetudinarian. The integration of baseball was easier than this, the introduction of fresh vegetables to the Thanksgiving menu. Since Sage Eastbluff and Sage on the Coast are closed this holiday, Chef Rich shares some of his tips for bringing variety, color and flavor to your meal with market-fresh produce. All are delicious enough to become beloved holiday traditions, should you succeed, with mandarin diplomacy, in getting them to the table. Bon Appétit!!
ONE
Mashed Butternut Squash
Roast the squash, wrapping each in foil individually. Scoop out and mash the soft interior, mixing in a reduction of bourbon, maple syrup, molasses and butter. Add a little cream if you must. Then salt and white pepper.
TWO
Roast Root Vegetables
Coat your carrots, beets, peeled cipollini onions, fennel, parsnips, and turnips in olive oil and roast slowly. Peel the beets and larger roots with gloved hands while still warm. Chop the vegetables and reheat at serving time, adding chopped apple if you wish, or toss them with fresh arugula in your favorite vinaigrette.
THREE
Fresh Winter Greens
Swiss chard, kale and rapini have great flavor, especially when blanched in water and a little butter, then torn and sauteed in garlic and olive oil, maybe with some onion or a little bacon.
FOUR
Yukon Gold Potatoes
Great for mashing or roasting—even better for potato cakes mixed with a little duck confit. Try a potato hash, livened up with vegetables and a little meat other than turkey. Weiser Farms potatoes come in a rainbow of colors and have twice the flavor.
FIVE
Baby Brussel Sprouts
So small and tender, even those that think they hate them can't resist. Sauté them in garlic and butter and serve with roasted carrots, squash, and cipollini onions.
SIX
Mix up the Stuffing
Vary the flavor and texture of your default stuffing by adding fresh walnuts, dried fruit, wild mushrooms, or sauteed vegetables. Or change up the breadcrumbs—use French bread or cornbread. Add chopped gourmet sausage. Go wild, you can't hurt it.
SEVEN
Cauliflower and Baby Broccoli
Can Be Fun Too
At Sage we blanche our cauliflower, then rub it with an anchoiade—oil, egg, pesto, anchovy—and breadcrumbs, then roast it in the oven. The result is amazing. Baby broccoli, sauteed with roast chili peppers and garlic, perks up a starchy table.
EIGHT
Stuffed Red Peppers
We stuff a lipstick pepper with chicken sausage and three cheeses, or with macaroni, cheese and lobster. A little imagination will make these the hit.
NINE
Seasonal Fruit for Desserts
Use fresh seasonal produce like apples, pears and pumpkins for your compotes, relishes, pies, crisps and crumbles. All work well with walnuts, raisins, pecans and cranberries. Make persimmon pudding or cookies. Or pomegranate granita. Remember the fresher the produce, the less you have to do to it.
TEN
Prepare Ahead
Thanksgiving needs less cooking and more reheating. Prepare as much as you can in the preceding days and finish just before dinner. Call us if you need help or more information. Relax and have fun!
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