Ornament

Tis the season, when a wintry gray scarcity licenses an oversampling of precious stores and every dark edge dons a plush glow. From the thronging mega-marts a five-minute cab ride away (save that primo parking place!) Sage Eastbluff is a welcome and welcoming respite. Maturity and restraint have kept the number of miniature trees on the patio under thirty-five, and plenty of overhead heating draws the reclusive into a private twinkling garden. Try the seasonal pomegranate and persimmon salad with arugula, Maui onions, pine nuts and sherry vinaigrette before you tear into the new, sweet, fresh Hawaiian snapper crusted with curry and coconut milk and served with orange-coconut basmati rice, mango relish and thai sauce. Or order a glass of Sonoma pinot, the '05 Landmark "Grand Detour" with the cedar box finish, to pair with your pancetta and breadcrumb crusted salmon with wild mushroom risotto and pinot sauce. For a while, you'll forget you even had a list.

Sage in Eastbluff is
open Christmas Eve,
but closed the night
of December 9 for
a private party.

Snowglobe

For the scarf-clad, Crystal Cove provides shopping on a village-scale. Blow, blow your glistening breath into the starry boughs and marvel as each shop window shuffles its shining cones, arcs and orbs like a Christmas kaleidoscope. A gruelling kaleidoscope rolled round by unseen elves and lurching model trains and the gear works of giant snowflakes. Well, perhaps it's time to eat. Coast pastry chef Robert LeSage (fortuitous hiring) has baked quince tarts—poached, pureed farmers' market fruit and custard baked into tart shells—topped with pomegranate sauce and maple-brown sugar ice cream, for a quick snack with your fellow carolers. He's also made whole 3-inch mini-apple pies with baby galas, topped with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream and (holy snowdrift!) pumpkin-mascarpone cheesecake. Robert's full-size cakes and pies are available to take away for gifts or parties. There's the abundantly dark, flourless Chocolate Truffle Cake ($50), the Pumpkin Pecan Pie baked with farmers' market fresh pumpkin ($45), and his award-winning Apple Pie made with Windrose Farms apples ($45). Spread the joy.

Sage on the Coast
is open Christmas Eve.
Make your New Year's
reservations early!

Lewis Carols

Christmas comes to Sage twice a year, when Dennis Bell of Lewis Cellars winery brings the new vintages down from Hillsboro for Chef Rich and his staff to taste. Lewis, called by the San Francisco Chronicle "one of the highest-regarded wineries in California," has been on the Sage wine list almost from the beginning. Exuberant style, "amazing concentration," and consistent "drinkability at a young age" are the hallmarks of Lewis wines, says wine buyer David Womack. They are the perfect wines for holiday gatherings with your dear, second-guessing family and friends. Over the years, Chef Rich has hoarded a dozen varieties and vintages, from the '03 Reserve Chardonnay that the Robb Report called the "best of the best," to the '01 Cuvée L, a special reserve bottling representing the pinnacle of Lewis' winemaking, blended from select lots of cabernet and cab franc from Rutherford and Pritchard Hill. Cellared merlots are at their jammy peak, while the staff favorite, the '03 Alec's Blend, a well-integrated blend of 60% syrah, 30% merlot and 10% cabernet, is a revelation. David, however, sticks by the refined '04 Sonoma Chardonnay, because it's light on the palate, not over-the-top, with a fresh Meyer lemon finish.

Dennis Bell, his mother Debbie Lewis and stepfather, former professional race car driver Randy Lewis, are the three palates responsible for Lewis Cellars' remarkably good run. Randy's steeply-banked, road-to-Damascus conversion to viticulture occured as a Formula Three racer in Europe, sipping celebratory Burgundies and red Bordeaux. Chef Rich first heard about them in the early days of Sage Eastbluff when Phil Crowley, then managing partner at the Ritz, used to bring in his family for late dinners in the sometimes empty dining room, sharing his wine and wine knowlege with the staff. Phil, who has a checkered flag-past himself, met Debbie and Randy at Five Crowns one afternoon in 1995, when he tasted their very first releases. Phil expected great things after unretiring Randy's apprenticeship at Oakville Ranch with Bob Miner and winemaker Joe Cafaro. "Buy all you can," he told Rich. Sage advice, indeed.

A Word from Rich

Most of all we want to take the time to thank our customers and employees who who have made this all possible. All of you have allowed us to take an idea and grow it into what we are today. This has always been more than just a business for us; it is a passion and we hope you have enjoyed it and will continue to enjoy it for many more years to come. Thank you!